As if the open, relaxed, friendly atmosphere wasn’t enticing enough, the triple-stacked sandwich dripping BBQ sauce proved the way to the heart is through the stomach. It’s a good thing a roll of paper towels in its neat tabletop holder was within arm’s reach.

The delicacy was a Swamp Donkey — a house specialty — a one-third-pound beef patty with American cheese, topped with smoked brisket and onion rings.

Oh, yeah, and...